1 GRANARY

Student Run Central Saint Martins Fashion Blog

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The Grayson Perry Project photo shoot for i-D online

1Granary gleefully presents Grayson Perry Project, especially shot for I-D Online.

Central Saint Martins’ 2nd year Fashion Print students, for the eighth consecutive year, had the joy of upgrading the wondrous wardrobe of Britain’s most celebrated artist, teddy-loving transvestite and University of the Arts Governor – Grayson Perry. The project started in 2004 when “Claire” – Grayson’s inner girl, went for shopping and run into Natalie Gibson – our beloved print tutor and lover of all pink, on the bus.

On the last day of school, 15 Print Kids, hopeful to please their superstar customer, offered desired variety of outfits: from girly dresses, a kimono, coats, knitted à la parisienne costume, a bike jacket to elegant evening frocks, some quite theatrical. The prints varied from architecture, puppies, abstract, skeletons to apocalypse, but mostly featured Alan Measles ‘A♥M’ – Grayson’s teddy-god, in quirky situations: in a womb, crucified and adored by angels, as Marie Antoinette and the A♥M LV-ish monogram – very commercial for CSM indeed!

Everyone did a great job, but there are always winners. Grayson presented the exquisite trophies by saying, “ The ‘Claire’ goes to…”:

GOLD: Stephanie Imma Cristofaro

SILVER: Richard Quinn

BRONZE:Darren Allard

We would like to thank Grayson Perry for tirelessly being our muse year by year, for a great interview and, most importantly, for being fabulous! Special thanks to our tutors: Natalie Gibson, Lindsay Taylor, Judith Strong, Patrick Lee Yow and Esme Young, who guide students through the creative chaos towards the light and meeting of deadlines! And we wish awesome summer holidays to 2nd year Print students, well done to all!

All photography: Kirill Kuletski

  Natalia Eyres

Richard Quinn

Stephanie Imma Cristofaro

Shoes and legs: Grayson’s own


Amie Boo Robertson

  Darren Allard

         Michael Griffin

      Padraic Buckley

Zoe ZhouAnna Skrobot

     Darren Allard

Frances Rose Knee

Grayson Perry’s Interview:

Who art you?

I am Grayson Perry the artist.

Please tell us about the “Grayson Perry Project”. How did it all began and what has it become over the years?

It started in 2004 when I bumped into Natalie Gibson, who ran fashion print at Saint Martins, on the bus when I was going for a shopping trip in the West End dressed up. She thought it would be great if the students designed and made me a dress. So the next year the project was born and it has been running now for eight years as the final project of the second year students. We have refined it each year to get the best out of the students and so they have a good time too hopefully. This year featured the usual ups and downs. The ups are enthusiasm and amazing designs beautifully made, the downs are laziness and lame ideas that go badly wrong! Every year I make trophies called ‘Claires’ like the Oscars only for second year print students. The three prize-winners this year were Stephanie, Richard and Darren who all made fab outfits.

Would Claire want to study design at CSM?

Claire would definitely do Fashion Print because she loves drawing stories and designing dresses. In another life maybe.

In your opinion, do all CSM kids have the same style/are alike?

CSM kids look like art students because that is what they are. The fashion ones are the best dressed naturally. I like to see young people making an effort to stand out, not enough people do that in the age of brands.

Is Central Saint Martins a special place?

CSM is one of the most famous art schools in the world and has a host of talented and famous alumni. It attracts great students from all over the world. The staff I work with are brilliantly experienced and sometimes, I don’t think the students really appreciate what an opportunity it is too work here.

What do you think about the Central Saint Martins’ new 1Granary building?

The new building is very impressive. It has had some teething problems. I think it will get better and better to work in as everyone gets used to it and more relaxed, an art school needs to feel lived in, a bit grubbier. I do miss Soho for the lunchtime restaurants, though the canteen is pretty good.

Recently, you have done wonderful series with Channel 4 on British taste and, as a result, have designed six beautiful tapestries. Would you do anything about your experiences at CSM?

I would like to make a TV program about the course at Central Saint Martins. The students definitely have a huge effect on how I dress up and design for myself. They have freed me completely from typical tranny habits. Each year the outfits become more diverse.

We read that you once squatted with Stephen Jones and used to compete with each other by wearing outrageous outfits to The Blitz?

There was a whole group squatting in Fitzrovia including Stephen Jones, also the Body Map people, the film maker John Maybury and the artist Cerith Wyn Evans, all scarily stylish to a yokel from Essex. People had no money, so wore things like outfits made of corrugated cardboard found in a skip or just bodypaint in the nude. Boy George had a phase dressing as a sort of Brittania figure.

What music do you listen to?

All sorts, country, classical, pop. My 20 year old daughter has downloaded a lot through my laptop, so I get to like her taste. She introduced me to Frank Turner, who I like a lot. I’m doing an hour on BBC radio 6 music soon as a DJ!!

What is the world without art to you?

It would not be human, we are meaning makers and art is a search for meaning.

Special thanks to i-D online

Art direction and text: Altynai Osmoeva

 

Quote of the day

CSM Walls

Chris, Chris, Neil and Sue. Love

Wanna experience your life like a disaster? / Or like a dream?

Central Saint Martins BA Show 2012: review

On 29th of May, BA Fashion graduates of Central Saint Martins have presented their final collections on the catwalk of a brand new King’s Cross 1Granary campus. The catwalk opposite a rough brick wall is a start for great careers in modern fashion industry and a temporary end of sleepless nights in the studios. High-tech fabrics, reinvented street wear, cleverly constructed shapes, sparkles and clarity of white. We loved it!

Central Saint Martins new 1Granary building at King’s Cross is an impressive architectural construction; solid and spacious as a temple, built with dark bricks and polished glass, it gives an impression of a modern urban beauty and provides perfect space to house and exhibit new fashion talents.

CMS students had a chance to see the BA graduate fashion show (at 15.oo pm) before the press and specially invited guests arrived for the second show run (at 19.oo pm), which took place in a spacious hall, flooded with a bright day light. All the seats were taken and several dozens of students were also watching the show through the wide library windows high above.

All together we saw 41 collections by graduates who studied on the Womenswear, Menswear, Fashion Print, Fashion Knit and Fashion Design with Marketing pathways. Young designers performed magic; showing unbelievable shapes, textures and fabric manipulations, volumes and structure. Also, forget black! It was all about white and unexpected combinations of textures and colours. Deconstruction of tradition and history. Reinvention of high streets’ tomorrow. Trend setting. Raw creativity. CMS style.

We love them all! But we chose nine students who impressed us with their fantastic designs, concept, innovative techniques, beautifully made pieces, unexpected ideas and striking vision, aimed straight into the future.

 Erin Hawkes, accompanied by Missy Elliot’s Pass that Dutch soundtrack, has showed all some fun; catholic nuns inspired collection, where she used ivory crispy silk for skirts and curiously floppy head pieces. The hip-hop and sportswear styles were visible influences in the collection’s silhouette, which were transformed beautifully. Dark denims, thick wool with large check patterns, luxurious duchess silks and sportswear cottons were the fabrics used. Erin has impressed us with her skill of working with volume and shape, making the over sized garments look elegant and fun.

Luke Stevens has turned fashion inside out to reveal our scruffy secrets. Fake nudity of beige fabric, ugly white underwear, huge labels with washing instructions. His collection is cleverly constructed, well balanced and it graced the catwalk amazingly styled.

Tigran Avetisyan‘s collection had  “too cool for school” rebellious vibe. Jackets covered with thick layer of black paint, imitating school chalk boards. Bold and a bit grotesque expressive tailoring. Simple, yet genius.

Drew Henry has paired bright orange and yellow pony skin with plain white to create striking contrast. Strong shapes, layers of folded, as if paper, white fabric and pearl-like beads. Breathtaking.

C.J. Yao‘s collection had very architectural shapes, very sophisticated. She used shades of grey, wood and ropes. Transformed Asian traditions and elegant tribal look.  Impressive work, extremely brave and out there.

Lucas Leclere‘s collection was full of stunning pieces with amazing textures and thought through trims. Reworked; one texture merging into another, ripped lace, shiny metallic jacquard, plastic heavily painted with oil paints as a painting, printed silks and rich jacquard were put together in a beautiful and theatrical way. The models walked sharp to the music of  Rameau remixed by Jerry Bouthier.

Maia Bergman used an innovative technology to turn simple fabrics into a sparkling miracle! So much of kind glitter and gentle colour. It was hard to believe that small and sparkly beads are attached to the fabric with no magic, but human hands. The simple cut and minimalistic silhouettes looked modern. Her collection, as it progressed, has told the story of a school girl becoming a sexy woman. Maia lovingly has named each look; one of her dresses is called Donatella Versace.

 Serena Gili’s pieces were close to sacred objects of art or religion. Inspired by the uniforms of nuns, Serena has created one single silhouette, but the richness and variation of the textures, techniques, patterns and materials used is absolutely gorgeous. Plastic skirts, shaped as bells or a modern vision of the 18th century court skirts, which were especially molded by a ship building company in France, and stunning knitted tops, beautifully put together with delicate yarns, golden metallic pieces and bright salad green plastic beads, looked so serene as the opera music filled the space. Balance, precision, splendor.

Natalija Mencej made a strong statement. Her beautiful, knitted and glittering collection was modeled by gorgeous guys with attitudes with gangster pugs under their arms, while Snoop Dogg and Dr. Dre’s “Smoke weed everyday” beat did the beat. Over sized pieces was Natalija’s way of expressing her fascination by street wear and hip hop culture and it’s definition of luxury. Made in candy colors and sparkling from head to toe.  Swag, right?

 

Words by Anastasiia Fedorova and Altynai Osmoeva

Images via Catwalking.com, collages by 1Granary

A Hard Night’s Day

BA Press Show: 29.05.12

So, Flaminia Saccucci was the 2011 finalist and L’Oreal Professional award winner at the Central Saint Martins graduate show. Since her beautiful floral-latex grad collection, her designs graced in the most respected fashion magazines such as Vogue Italia, I-D, Garage, Dazed and Confused and more. She has also exhibited at the V&A and has designed a special capsule collection, which was sold at Browns Focus. Most importantly, her talent was noticed by Ricardo Tisci, the head designer at Givenchy and Central Saint Martins’ alumni, who has hired her hot from the spot as a print designer. Now, it is time for a new CSM star to emerge. The Press Show for graduates of 2012 is days away and we can hardly wait to see all the beautiful collections. We believe that in 2012 Central Saint Martins has a stardust of young fashion talents ready for the industry, but the winner always stands alone. Press Show is on Tuesday, the 29th of May, 2012.                          Solange Knowles wearing one of Flaminia’s designs at the MoMA Garden Party in NYC last Tuesday.

CSM Degree Shows 2012

Public opening times:

15, 18, 19 and 20 June: 12 – 8pm
Saturday 16 June: 12am – 6pm
Sunday 17 June – Closed
Thursday 21 June: 12 – 6pm

Exhibiting courses:

  • BA Acting – Drama Centre London
  • BA Architecture: Spaces and Objects
  • BA Ceramic Design
  • BA Criticism, Communication and Curation: Arts and Design
  • BA Directing – Drama Centre London
  • BA Fashion
  • BA Fine Art
  • BA Graphic Design
  • BA Jewellery Design
  • BA Performance Design and Practice
  • BA Product Design
  • BA Textile Design
  • Graduate Diploma in Fashion
  • MA Communication Design
  • MA Creative Practice for Narrative Environments
  • MA Design: Ceramics, Furniture or Jewellery
  • MA Industrial Design
  • MA Innovation Management
  • MA Textile Futures

Charlotte

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